Restaurant Review: Tresind
Seeing as my knowledge of the periodic table is limited to my love of Breaking Bad, the cynic in me was beginning to believe that Molecular Gastronomy was just a culinary catchphrase. A word people throw around in an attempt to sound sophisticated, it wasn’t until a recent invitation to dine at Tresind which would put my skepticism to rest. The cooking technique which blends physics and chemistry to transform taste and texture made for a gastronomic and scientific spectacular complete with a presentation fit for a theater.
The restaurant which marries a progressive fine dining approach with traditional Indian cuisine managed to defy everything I’ve ever known about Indian cuisine and transform it into something different while maintaining its Indian roots. Spicy Indian curries, savory biryani’s and fluffy samosas are notably absent from Tresind’s menu and replaced with Jalebi caviar, Pani Puri served inside out, sorbet cosmopolitans and Kandavi Ice Cream.
Similar to the food, the presentation also boasts modern flair. The popular Modernist Chaat Trolley was reminiscent of an artist painting a canvas as the chef splashed colorful varieties of chutney across a tray before pouring liquid nitrogen over the dhokla during the live table side demonstration. The unanimous favorite of the night, the Wild Mushroom Chai, was poured from a teaspout in to small teacups and filled the air with the delicate aroma of truffle. A deconstructed version of Black Forest Cake with Punjabi Milk Fudge left us in a fog of liquid nitrogen and Paan candy floss suspended from a miniature palm tree was our breath mint to finish off the culinary adventure.
Tresind, which stands for ‘tres’ as in ‘very’, as in tres bien, or ‘very good’, and ‘ind’ as in Indian, indeed boasts very good Indian food. With science by his side, the young and talented Chef Himanshu Saini is not only a chef, he is also a scientist and artist. This was not only a dinner which introduced my taste buds to new flavors, new Indian dishes and new cooking techniques, it also allowed me to eat the science project which has given me a newfound appreciation for physics and chemistry.
Here is a sneak peak of Tresind’s new summer menu which embraces the flavors of the season and holds on to some of their signature dishes.
zatar pao, pindi channa hummus, pickled olives and sun dried tomatoes
deconstructed pani puri (pictured at top of post)
modernist chaat trolley
wild mushroom chai, dehydrated mushrooms, truffle milk powder
braised lamb chops, aam papad chutney, churan fleur de sel
chicken pepper fry, gongura pickle, paper dosai
dahi bhalla ice cream, nitro cooked potato roasti, ginger pickle
amratrsari soft shell crab
manglorean fish curry, john dory gassi, kosambari salad
chilli hoisin duck khurchan, roomali pancakes
besan ladoo cornetto, pistachio kulfi, milk skin crisp
daulat ki chaat, sohn papdi crumble, 24 carat gold dust
jalebi caviar 2.0
doda barfi black forrest cake
Paan Candy Floss
Disclaimer: I was a guest at Tresind however all opinions expressed here are my own.